San Telmo is a gritty suburb of skinny cobblestone streets with a mishmash of colonial and belle epoque architecture. It often gets a bad wrap, accused of being ‘touristy’. But San Telmo is actually one of Buenos Aires’ most bohemian barrios, with a working class population, uni students sinking cheap beers each night in its … Read more about San Telmo #2: bohemian Buenos Aires
Remembering my days of journal writing at cafés and bars such as El Hipopotamo started a string of reveries about the bewitching Buenos Aires barrio of San Telmo. We rented an apartment in Buenos Aires for a few months earlier this year, using it as a base to research the city for a book. San … Read more about San Telmo #1: bliss in Buenos Aires
Are you a journal writer? Do you keep a journal when you travel or does your blog suffice? When I was younger, before I became a professional travel writer, I used to keep journals whenever I travelled. I’d write most days, usually with a drink in hand, from my hotel balcony, an al fresco café … Read more about Travelling: journals
Each weekend the lively Feria de Mataderos, Market of Slaughterhouses, is held in Buenos Aires’ outer working class suburb of Mataderos. It’s a vibrant celebration of meat, gaucho culture and rural life, with barbecues, food and craft stalls, folk music and dancing, and the highlight of the day, the sortija. Skillful horsemen in traditional gaucho … Read more about Travelling: peoplewatching #2